From Prada’s Origami Heels to Jimmy Choo’s Punk Princess Pumps

Milan Fashion Week officially kicked off its concise but action-packed week of runway shows, presentations and events on Wednesday, Feb. 22 for the fall winter ’23 season.

All eyes are once again on Gucci as it holds its transitional show, after the November departure of former creative director Alessandro Michele, before incoming creative director Sabato De Sarno makes his debut in September for the spring summer ’24 collection.

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The week also sees more Y2K-influenced buzz from the likes of Diesel and GCDS, the ever-inventive accessories of Moschino, another riff on kitten heels from Prada and more.

Jimmy Choo pays homage to punk

It’s no surprise that the spirit of punk is coursing through fashion’s creative minds, with the recent death of Dame Vivienne Westwood. For fall winter ’23, Jimmy Choo joined the calling, adding tartan prints and diamond-shaped studs to everything from the expected combat boot to more ladylike ballet flats (also adorned with pearls) and glittering wedge tall boots. “Being a Brit, punk is everything,” creative director Sandra Choi told FN at the brand’s MFW presentation on Saturday. “It’s identity, it’s that dose of being different. This is about the merging of the two worlds, something princess-y mixing with punk.” Elsewhere in the collection, everything from signature bow-accented flats to smooth leather mules received the pointy-toed treatment.

Jimmy Choo’s punk-inspired strappy ballet flat for fall winter ’23. - Credit: G.Colosio

Jimmy Choo’s punk-inspired strappy ballet flat for fall winter ’23. – Credit: G.Colosio

G.Colosio

A diamond-shaped stud motif on brushed gold hardware, on a pointed toe cutout bootie for Jimmy Choo’s fall winter ’23 collection. - Credit: Photographer: Sara Magni

A diamond-shaped stud motif on brushed gold hardware, on a pointed toe cutout bootie for Jimmy Choo’s fall winter ’23 collection. – Credit: Photographer: Sara Magni

Photographer: Sara Magni

Gianvito Rossi hosts the “Shoe Bar”

The footwear designer’s aperitivo inside the foyer of Milan’s Teatro alla Scala was the social event of the night on Friday at Milan Fashion Week, as guests rubbed elbows with each other — and the fall winter ’23 collection that was on display inside. Rossi once again focused on a strong boot offering to drive the season, toggling between classics in soft and patent leathers (some with lace-up details, others with curb-link anklets) and more novelty ideas, such as graduated metal grommets, stamped snake print and a thigh-high, cut-out gladiator that reminds trend watchers the style is due for a revival. The designer’s staple platform heels and strappy sandals were also still there, this time done in a royal purple. the clear statement color of the season.

Gianvito Rossi fall winter ’23. - Credit: Courtesy of Gianvito Rossi

Gianvito Rossi fall winter ’23. – Credit: Courtesy of Gianvito Rossi

Courtesy of Gianvito Rossi

Gianvito Rossi fall winter ’23. - Credit: Courtesy of Gianvito Rossi

Gianvito Rossi fall winter ’23. – Credit: Courtesy of Gianvito Rossi

Courtesy of Gianvito Rossi

Prada ups the ante on the kitten heel

The Prada kitten heel, with its minty or bubblegum colors (paired with the ever-sought-after triangular logo) has become something of a status symbol for those still wearing kitten heels (and for those who might want to try them out for the first time). For fall winter ’23, the brand put forth another round, this time decorating them with origami-like folds and flowers, all  made of soft leather and done in white, black, pink and orange. The shoe also came in a flat style — the now-signature pointy toe stayed the same. All were paired with simple Saffiano leather trapezoid bags destined to continue the brand’s logo-mania dominance.

Prada’s floral origami pointed toe kitten heels and flats on the runway at its fall winter ’23 women’s show during Milan Fashion Week. - Credit: WireImage

Prada’s floral origami pointed toe kitten heels and flats on the runway at its fall winter ’23 women’s show during Milan Fashion Week. – Credit: WireImage

WireImage

Origami flats and trapeze bags at Prada women’s fall winter ’23 at Milan Fashion Week. - Credit: WireImage

Origami flats and trapeze bags at Prada women’s fall winter ’23 at Milan Fashion Week. – Credit: WireImage

WireImage

Etro goes granny-chic with embroideries, shawls and more vintage totems

Always skirting the edge of hippie-chic, Etro went a few decades further back for its fall winter ’23 women’s runway colletion

Embroidered t-strap platforms and a matching dress at Etro fall winter ’23. - Credit: Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Embroidered t-strap platforms and a matching dress at Etro fall winter ’23. – Credit: Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

A suede striped bag and matching knitwear from Etro fall winter ’23. - Credit: Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

A suede striped bag and matching knitwear from Etro fall winter ’23. – Credit: Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Max Mara stays true to the camel hue — boots included

Everyone in fashion knowns that camel and Max Mara go hand in hand. So it was no surprise to see the neutral tone dominate the brand’s fall winter ’23 runway show from head to toe — and even lips, as the accompanying beauty looks revealed. In addition to dramatic teddy hoods, chunky knit headbands and thick black leather obi belts, boots were done in a glossy caramel or espresso leather, which matched the brand’s equally shiny duffels.

Camel from head to toe at Max Mara <a href=fall winter ’23. – Credit: Getty Images” src=”https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/4bm.N9C4xybKkXKAaI7RZw–/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjt3PTcwNTtoPTEwNTc-/https://media.zenfs.com/en/footwear_news_642/cfcc8545edb2cea3e83fba8f346aaa19″/>

Camel from head to toe at Max Mara fall winter ’23. – Credit: Getty Images

Getty Images

Diesel counts condoms and whale tails

Arguably MFW’s buzziest show of the post-pandemic era, Diesel continued its newfound notoriety on Wednesday when models strutted around a giant mountain of condoms (a nod to an upcoming collaboration with the brand Durex), wearing more of the Y2K-tinged denim, low rises and shredded frocks that creative director Glenn Martens has become known for since joining the brand. This time around, the denim was sans-waistbands and a few pairs featured see-through mesh panels and/or trompe-l’œil low-rise thong whale tales — the real indicator that the 2000s are back.

Diesel fall winter ’23. - Credit: Filippo Fior

Diesel fall winter ’23. – Credit: Filippo Fior

Filippo Fior

Diesel fall winter ’23. - Credit: Filippo Fior

Diesel fall winter ’23. – Credit: Filippo Fior

Filippo Fior

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