autumn winter

Fendi, Antonio Marras and Etro kick off day one of Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2023 began on Wednesday and, as expected of the Italian city, things were both stylish and provocative.

At Fendi, creative director Kim Jones continued with the clothes-as-armour theme, as well as the underwear-as-outerwear idea he set in motion at his recent haute couture show. For this autumn/winter ready-to-wear collection, Jones offered contrasting options for the modern woman. There was sharp suiting with complex, layered looks that were strong and powerful, while other designs were soft, almost flimsy, in lace and silk.

Fendi women's autumn/winter 2023 collection presented in Milan. AP

Antonio Marras wove a wintry gothic tale, with knitted cable jumpers featuring lace and dense flowers creeping across the garments. There was even a tailored tartan suit, a nod to Vivienne Westwood, who died last year.

At Weekend Max Mara, British stylist Kate Phelan brought some androgynous London cool to Milan, via her capsule collection for the brand, which was simply called 24. Inspired by a December 1982 Vogue fashion shoot by Bruce Weber and Grace Coddington that Phelan saw as a teenager, she explains that as soon as she was invited to collaborate on a collection, she knew this shoot would be the foundation of it. “I have been obsessed with these images ever since and, in a way, they made me fall in love with fashion,” she explained.

Translated into high-waisted, pleat-fronted trousers, oversized Harris Tweed blazers and herringbone coats that all leaned into Max Mara know-how, the collection also included pleated black denim skirts and Dr Martens for a dash of early 1980s street style.

Over at Marina Rinaldi, Mary Katrantzou presented a collaboration collection centred on a swirled psychedelic pattern akin to the marbled paper found in old books. Offered in teal and pink, the swirly shapes arrived across dresses, split-front

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Milan Fashion Week: Prada blooms, Emporio Armani shimmers

Florals bloomed on skirts, shoes and from the ceiling at Italian designer label Prada’s Milan Fashion Week show on Thursday (Feb 23)

Designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons turned wedding dresses into everyday looks, opening their autumn/winter 2023-24 catwalk presentation with a range of long and short white skirts embellished with white flowers and paired with knits.

Utility suits became long shirt dresses with trains, while large boxy jackets were matched with slim ankle-length trousers in mainly dark shades.

Models wore shirts with stick-out shoulders, knits and jackets with colourful inside collars, and pastel-coloured cigarette trousers paired with ribbed tops.

Kitten heels in a range of colours bore cut-out floral patterns.

The collection also featured white puffer and dark asymmetrical mini skirts, colourful printed dresses, buttoned capes and duffel coats.

Last month, the Hong Kong-listed fashion group said it had appointed a new chief executive, Andrea Guerra, taking the place of Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada and easing a transition to the next generation of the founding family.

At Emporio Armani, models walked on a round catwalk to present the latest collection of veteran designer Giorgio Armani’s second line.

The 88-year-old designer, affectionately called “King Giorgio” in his native Italy, presented a sleek offering with plenty of black that was brightened with pinks, reds and purples.

Jackets had asymmetric buttons, velvet trouser suits were loose and comfy, while black and lilac evening looks shimmered with sequins.

“It is a collection under the sign of discretion even in displaying a slightly eccentric fashion,” Armani told reporters.

He will present his latest collection for his main Giorgio Armani line on Sunday.

Milan Fashion Week is the third leg of the month-long catwalk calendar, during which designers present their autumn/winter 2023-24 collections.

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Clothing brand inspired by contemporary culture makes New York Fashion Week debut

COS announces its New York Fashion Week debut this September with its Autumn Winter 2022 campaign featuring American model Paloma Elsesser, alongside actor and producer Natasha Lyonne, shot in New York City by Mario Sorrenti.

Actor and producer Natasha Lyonne

Drawing inspiration from the dynamic energy of global cities, COS aims to celebrate New York’s diverse communities and individual expression against the city’s own powerful backdrop.

Scheduled as part of the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s official schedule, the show will take place on September 13 at 2:00 p.m. EDT and will be streamed live on cos.com. 

CFDA CEO Steven Kolb comments, “CFDA welcomes COS to New York Fashion Week. Each season we curate an official schedule that reflects creativity, and we are pleased to count COS among this season’s line-up. NYFW is increasingly a destination for international brands wanting to connect to NYC culture and the vast American audience.”

American model Paloma Elsesser

More information on the show and Autumn Winter 2022 collection to follow in due course.

Inspired by contemporary culture, the London-based fashion brand is known for iconic wardrobe pieces, elevated essentials, and innovative designs that are made to last. Dedicated to quality and sustainability, COS takes a bespoke approach to design, creating unique collections that combine function with timeless style. Experimental design details and material innovation are frequently revisited to include the latest sartorial advances and ensure the considered use of fibers whether they be recycled, renewed, or sustainably sourced.   

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