Fendi, Antonio Marras and Etro kick off day one of Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2023 began on Wednesday and, as expected of the Italian city, things were both stylish and provocative.

At Fendi, creative director Kim Jones continued with the clothes-as-armour theme, as well as the underwear-as-outerwear idea he set in motion at his recent haute couture show. For this autumn/winter ready-to-wear collection, Jones offered contrasting options for the modern woman. There was sharp suiting with complex, layered looks that were strong and powerful, while other designs were soft, almost flimsy, in lace and silk.

Fendi women's autumn/winter 2023 collection presented in Milan. AP

Antonio Marras wove a wintry gothic tale, with knitted cable jumpers featuring lace and dense flowers creeping across the garments. There was even a tailored tartan suit, a nod to Vivienne Westwood, who died last year.

At Weekend Max Mara, British stylist Kate Phelan brought some androgynous London cool to Milan, via her capsule collection for the brand, which was simply called 24. Inspired by a December 1982 Vogue fashion shoot by Bruce Weber and Grace Coddington that Phelan saw as a teenager, she explains that as soon as she was invited to collaborate on a collection, she knew this shoot would be the foundation of it. “I have been obsessed with these images ever since and, in a way, they made me fall in love with fashion,” she explained.

Translated into high-waisted, pleat-fronted trousers, oversized Harris Tweed blazers and herringbone coats that all leaned into Max Mara know-how, the collection also included pleated black denim skirts and Dr Martens for a dash of early 1980s street style.

Over at Marina Rinaldi, Mary Katrantzou presented a collaboration collection centred on a swirled psychedelic pattern akin to the marbled paper found in old books. Offered in teal and pink, the swirly shapes arrived across dresses, split-front

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Rihanna: A closer look at her vast collection of vintage handbags

It’s no secret that Rihanna is a vintage obsessive, whether it’s a rare ’80s Jean Paul Gaultier piece or a ’90s Chanel coat in bubblegum pink (which she wore to announce her first pregnancy). That’s certainly clear when it comes to her vast handbag collection, too, which is packed full of rare gems that only the keenest of eyes will have picked up on. 

Tom Ford-era Gucci is a particular favorite. The star owns a python-print bag from Spring-Summer 1996, sourced from archivist Lab2022, while a ’90s velvet monogrammed bag from the designer is a wardrobe staple. More recently, Riri was spotted with a red beaded monogrammed clutch bag by the designer, which matched perfectly with her red Magda Butrym dress. 

Rihanna with a Tom Ford-era Gucci bag slung over her shoulder in August 2022.

Robert Kamau

Rihanna also has several of Dior’s iconic saddle bags in her collection, including one in camo print that she sported with a maternity crop top last year, as well as a Noughties tie-dye version. Rather than just sticking to classic styles in easy-to-match neutrals, the singer gravitates towards rare collectors’ items, such as the brand’s bowling bag, again in a camo print, dating back to the early 2000s.

The same can be said for Rihanna’s growing assortment of vintage Fendi bags, too. Last year, the beauty mogul added the brand’s rare Squirrel Spy bag in velvet to her collection, which also includes the iconic Croissant shape, sourced from Vintage By Misty. She’s also been spotted with a number of limited-edition Louis Vuitton bags, such as the LV X Stephen Sprouse Pochette bag, as well as the brand’s 1998 soccer ball-shaped purse created to commemorate the World Cup.

Rihanna’s collection of vintage bags continues to grow

Rihanna portant

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Milan Fashion Week: Prada blooms, Emporio Armani shimmers

Florals bloomed on skirts, shoes and from the ceiling at Italian designer label Prada’s Milan Fashion Week show on Thursday (Feb 23)

Designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons turned wedding dresses into everyday looks, opening their autumn/winter 2023-24 catwalk presentation with a range of long and short white skirts embellished with white flowers and paired with knits.

Utility suits became long shirt dresses with trains, while large boxy jackets were matched with slim ankle-length trousers in mainly dark shades.

Models wore shirts with stick-out shoulders, knits and jackets with colourful inside collars, and pastel-coloured cigarette trousers paired with ribbed tops.

Kitten heels in a range of colours bore cut-out floral patterns.

The collection also featured white puffer and dark asymmetrical mini skirts, colourful printed dresses, buttoned capes and duffel coats.

Last month, the Hong Kong-listed fashion group said it had appointed a new chief executive, Andrea Guerra, taking the place of Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada and easing a transition to the next generation of the founding family.

At Emporio Armani, models walked on a round catwalk to present the latest collection of veteran designer Giorgio Armani’s second line.

The 88-year-old designer, affectionately called “King Giorgio” in his native Italy, presented a sleek offering with plenty of black that was brightened with pinks, reds and purples.

Jackets had asymmetric buttons, velvet trouser suits were loose and comfy, while black and lilac evening looks shimmered with sequins.

“It is a collection under the sign of discretion even in displaying a slightly eccentric fashion,” Armani told reporters.

He will present his latest collection for his main Giorgio Armani line on Sunday.

Milan Fashion Week is the third leg of the month-long catwalk calendar, during which designers present their autumn/winter 2023-24 collections.

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Incoming! Raf Simons To Make His SS23 Debut At London Fashion Week

For the first time, the label of Belgium iconoclast Raf Simons will take to the runway of LFW.

For the first time, the label of Belgium iconoclast Raf Simons will take to the runway of LFW.

On September 16th at 8 pm, the iconoclastic visionary, Raf Simons, announced he would take to the runway of London Fashion Week for the debut of his latest archetypal Spring Summer 2023 Womenswear and Menswear Collection.

“It’s been a dream for a while to show in London – a city where fashion and creativity is omnipresent in the streets and where I see exceptional people with a strong unique style. I’m extremely excited that this dream is becoming a reality now, and I’m very happy to welcome the amazing people and faces that make up the London scene to my show. Can’t wait to see you and dance the night away,” says Raf Simons.

Through his bold emergence into the fashion world around 1995, Simons has long been regarded for his love of both rebellious youth subcultures and traditional menswear, executing a radically different image of masculinity. At the core of every collection and “his universe” are his attitudes, moods, and statements communicating individuality and independence. Simons was creative director at Jil Sander (2005-2012), Christian Dior (2012-2015), and Calvin Klein (2016-2018). As of April 1st, 2020, he signed on as the co-creative director of Prada in partnership with Miuccia Prada.

Simon’s “for confident outsiders” approach has been sanctioned as a source of inspiration for artists such as Rihanna, Kendrick Lamar, Travis Scott, Future, ASAP Rocky, Drake, and Kanye West who in an interview cited Simons as the primary influence for his Yeezy Season 1 collection. In 2017, the popular rap group, A$AP MOB, released a song entitled “RAF,” featuring Quavo, Playboi Carti, Lil

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Legowelt shows off his cheap ‘thrift store’ vintage synth collection

Dutch producer Legowelt is well-known for being a gear obsessive and synth nerd of the highest order. Our very own Future Music Magazine took a memorable tour of his studio back in 2014, but it seems that his collection has expanded by quite some degree since then.

In a new video from Thomann (opens in new tab), Legowelt takes us on a guided tour of his considerable synth collection, highlighting some lesser-known and inexpensive instruments that have a delightfully nostalgic sound. The producer talks about the instruments that shaped the soundtrack for his upcoming feature animation film, Ambient Trip Commander.

“I’m using a lot of ’80s home keyboards,” he says, showing us the JVC KB-700, a vintage keyboard with a rudimentary mono synth built in. Next up, he shows off the Yamaha PSS-480, a 2-operator FM synth that shares a chip with ’90s PC soundcards, lending it a curious sound that’s reminiscent of retro RPG games. 

Elsewhere in the studio tour, Legowelt singles out his Microstation, a petite early ’00s instrument from Korg that he describes as one of his favourite synthesizers. “It’s basically a micro version of the Korg Triton,” he tells us. “It can do these amazingly cool, Rhodes-style pianos that you can program really crazily, with amp simulations and filters.”  

Later in the video, Legowelt runs us through more contemporary synths – including a Sequential Oberheim OB-6 and the modern-day Prophet-5 – and a ton of vintage rackmount gear. We needn’t say more – dive in.”Legowelt’s Ambient Trip Commander is out now.  (opens in new tab)

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Men’s Spring 2023 Fashion Trend: Americana

Hedi Slimane’s love of American youth culture has been a point of reference for his menswear creations over the years, and his latest spring 2023 men’s collection — infused with rock ‘n’ roll — was no exception.

American flag prints in blazers, artfully crafted faded jeans, oversize leather outerwear embellished with studs, fringe and allover sequins, with a few Elvis-worthy retro tuxedoes, were among the coolest examples of that American rocker style, with a touch of grunge that Slimane is known for.

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For Dsquared2’s collection, the Americana trend was surf-inspired. “There’s enough bulls–t in the world, enough hate. We want to be as positive as possible, chilled down and more connected,” said Dsquared2 codesigner Dan Caten about his menswear collection backstage after their show. That relaxed and chill attitude came through in a colorful collection that centered around American surfing culture, featuring inventive layering, floral-print clashes, a few ’70s retro references and an overall leisurely mood.

Junya Watanabe went for Americana too: “An adept serial collaborator fond of American workwear brands like Levi’s, Brooks Brothers and Carhartt, Junya Watanabe widened his list of dance partners even further for spring 2023 to the crème de la crème of American Pop artists” wrote international editor Miles Socha on his Junya Watanabe spring collection review. Roy Lichtenstein’s forlorn comic-strip females, Andy Warhol’s “Marilyn Monroe,” Keith Haring’s doodles and Jean-Michel Basquiat’s crowns and skull motifs were some of the embellishment details used throughout the collection. Consumer goods logos from Netflix, Coca-Cola and Honda were also present to reinforce the Americana mood of the offering.

Mike Amiri, one of the many American designers that descended over Paris Fashion Week, also brought the Americana trend to the forefront of his spring collection. ”Amiri draws much inspiration from the archive of classic Americana

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Matty Bovan Is Taking His Avant-garde Maximalism to Milan Fashion Week

LONDON — Matty Bovan is joining the Milan Fashion Week schedule.

The Yorkshire-based designer will be showing his spring 2023 collection on the official calendar with support from Dolce & Gabbana, which is supplying Bovan with fabrics and materials.

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Bovan graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2015 with an MA in fashion knitwear. Their graduate collection opened the final show at the fashion university that earned Bovan the L’Oréal Professionel Creative Award, followed by the prestigious LVMH Graduate Prize, which includes 10,000 euros and a junior designer placement at Louis Vuitton under Nicolas Ghesquière.

“Craft and handiwork are at the heart of my work, something that myself and this iconic maison have great affinity with; the synergy upon meeting Domenico and Stefano recently was palpable,” Bovan said in a statement, adding that they’re “still processing the idea that I am going to be exploring their archives and mixing their historic work with my new output for next spring. I’m already feeling the turbo charge of this alliance.”

Bovan’s avant-garde maximalist approach to design has secured them deals with the likes of Coach, working on a range of accessories projects since 2016; collaborating with Miu Miu on a series of dressed up mannequins, and a series of limited edition Barbie dolls dressed in their garments.

Fall 2022 was Bovan’s biggest collection to date, titled Cyclone, which they described as “chaos and destruction — even beauty — in the wake of its power.” Model Irina Shayk opened Bovan’s show in a repurposed Roksanda Ilincic voluminous gown.

Since their fashion week debut with creative hub Fashion East in 2017, Bovan has gone on to staging solo shows during London Fashion Week that have led to their designs being bought by Matchesfashion and Milan’s No30.

Bovan’s nonconformist aesthetic will bring

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History takes bows, amid new rows, at Haute Couture Fashion Week

against the backdrop of the Spanish steps, while Dolce & Gabbana returned to its Sicilian roots.

Kim Kardashian made headlines for walking at the Balenciaga show alongside Nicole Kidman and Dua Lipa but was quickly overshadowed by daughter North West’s first foray into the fashion scene. West, who is Kim’s eldest child with rapper Kanye West, accompanied her famous mother throughout the week, and was even spotted front row at Jean Paul Gaultier’s show, making ripples on social media with her distinct punk-esque style.

Beyond the celebrity grandeur, high fashion was still the main focus of the week. Haute couture garments are made-to-order pieces bought by extremely wealthy individuals, the pieces are often sewn by hand and showcase the highest form of the designer’s craftsmanship. These collections are also often used as marketing vehicles to sustain a brand’s prestige and increase exposure.

Here are the highlights of Haute Couture Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2022.

In full bloom
Schiaparelli, a brand that had faded out of the spotlight but has since got a refresh, opened couture week at the hands of creative director Daniel Roseberry. The collection echoed ’80s glamour, with exaggerated silhouettes in striking colours, paired with dramatic hats and headpieces by milliner Stephen Jones.

In true couture spirit, looks 22 to 28 were accented by Roseberry’s painstakingly hand-painted and hand-embroidered flowers adorned with sequins. These larger-than-life floral motifs were a subtle nod to Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist origins.

The design house is also the subject of an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, which explores Schiaparelli’s original works and pieces from other notable designers  who were inspired by her, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaïa, and Christian Lacroix.

A pragmatic approach
While most couture collections tend to go more fantastical and elaborate, Chanel artistic

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