creative director

From Prada’s Origami Heels to Jimmy Choo’s Punk Princess Pumps

Milan Fashion Week officially kicked off its concise but action-packed week of runway shows, presentations and events on Wednesday, Feb. 22 for the fall winter ’23 season.

All eyes are once again on Gucci as it holds its transitional show, after the November departure of former creative director Alessandro Michele, before incoming creative director Sabato De Sarno makes his debut in September for the spring summer ’24 collection.

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The week also sees more Y2K-influenced buzz from the likes of Diesel and GCDS, the ever-inventive accessories of Moschino, another riff on kitten heels from Prada and more.

Jimmy Choo pays homage to punk

It’s no surprise that the spirit of punk is coursing through fashion’s creative minds, with the recent death of Dame Vivienne Westwood. For fall winter ’23, Jimmy Choo joined the calling, adding tartan prints and diamond-shaped studs to everything from the expected combat boot to more ladylike ballet flats (also adorned with pearls) and glittering wedge tall boots. “Being a Brit, punk is everything,” creative director Sandra Choi told FN at the brand’s MFW presentation on Saturday. “It’s identity, it’s that dose of being different. This is about the merging of the two worlds, something princess-y mixing with punk.” Elsewhere in the collection, everything from signature bow-accented flats to smooth leather mules received the pointy-toed treatment.

Jimmy Choo’s punk-inspired strappy ballet flat for fall winter ’23. - Credit: G.Colosio

Jimmy Choo’s punk-inspired strappy ballet flat for fall winter ’23. – Credit: G.Colosio

G.Colosio

A diamond-shaped stud motif on brushed gold hardware, on a pointed toe cutout bootie for Jimmy Choo’s fall winter ’23 collection. - Credit: Photographer: Sara Magni

A diamond-shaped stud motif on brushed gold hardware, on a pointed toe cutout bootie for Jimmy Choo’s fall winter ’23 collection. – Credit: Photographer: Sara Magni

Photographer: Sara Magni

Gianvito Rossi hosts the “Shoe Bar”

The footwear designer’s aperitivo inside the foyer of Milan’s Teatro alla Scala was the social event of the night on Friday at Milan Fashion Week, as guests rubbed

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Incoming! Raf Simons To Make His SS23 Debut At London Fashion Week

For the first time, the label of Belgium iconoclast Raf Simons will take to the runway of LFW.

For the first time, the label of Belgium iconoclast Raf Simons will take to the runway of LFW.

On September 16th at 8 pm, the iconoclastic visionary, Raf Simons, announced he would take to the runway of London Fashion Week for the debut of his latest archetypal Spring Summer 2023 Womenswear and Menswear Collection.

“It’s been a dream for a while to show in London – a city where fashion and creativity is omnipresent in the streets and where I see exceptional people with a strong unique style. I’m extremely excited that this dream is becoming a reality now, and I’m very happy to welcome the amazing people and faces that make up the London scene to my show. Can’t wait to see you and dance the night away,” says Raf Simons.

Through his bold emergence into the fashion world around 1995, Simons has long been regarded for his love of both rebellious youth subcultures and traditional menswear, executing a radically different image of masculinity. At the core of every collection and “his universe” are his attitudes, moods, and statements communicating individuality and independence. Simons was creative director at Jil Sander (2005-2012), Christian Dior (2012-2015), and Calvin Klein (2016-2018). As of April 1st, 2020, he signed on as the co-creative director of Prada in partnership with Miuccia Prada.

Simon’s “for confident outsiders” approach has been sanctioned as a source of inspiration for artists such as Rihanna, Kendrick Lamar, Travis Scott, Future, ASAP Rocky, Drake, and Kanye West who in an interview cited Simons as the primary influence for his Yeezy Season 1 collection. In 2017, the popular rap group, A$AP MOB, released a song entitled “RAF,” featuring Quavo, Playboi Carti, Lil

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History takes bows, amid new rows, at Haute Couture Fashion Week

against the backdrop of the Spanish steps, while Dolce & Gabbana returned to its Sicilian roots.

Kim Kardashian made headlines for walking at the Balenciaga show alongside Nicole Kidman and Dua Lipa but was quickly overshadowed by daughter North West’s first foray into the fashion scene. West, who is Kim’s eldest child with rapper Kanye West, accompanied her famous mother throughout the week, and was even spotted front row at Jean Paul Gaultier’s show, making ripples on social media with her distinct punk-esque style.

Beyond the celebrity grandeur, high fashion was still the main focus of the week. Haute couture garments are made-to-order pieces bought by extremely wealthy individuals, the pieces are often sewn by hand and showcase the highest form of the designer’s craftsmanship. These collections are also often used as marketing vehicles to sustain a brand’s prestige and increase exposure.

Here are the highlights of Haute Couture Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2022.

In full bloom
Schiaparelli, a brand that had faded out of the spotlight but has since got a refresh, opened couture week at the hands of creative director Daniel Roseberry. The collection echoed ’80s glamour, with exaggerated silhouettes in striking colours, paired with dramatic hats and headpieces by milliner Stephen Jones.

In true couture spirit, looks 22 to 28 were accented by Roseberry’s painstakingly hand-painted and hand-embroidered flowers adorned with sequins. These larger-than-life floral motifs were a subtle nod to Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist origins.

The design house is also the subject of an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, which explores Schiaparelli’s original works and pieces from other notable designers  who were inspired by her, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaïa, and Christian Lacroix.

A pragmatic approach
While most couture collections tend to go more fantastical and elaborate, Chanel artistic

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Chanel Adds Designer for Special Projects, VIP Dressing

NEW RECRUIT: Virginie Viard, creative director at Chanel, has added a notable talent to her design team, WWD has learned.

Alexandre Morgado, a nine-year veteran of Givenchy, has joined the French house to work with Viard on special projects, including VIP dressing.

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A Chanel spokeswoman confirmed the appointment to WWD, and noted it’s a new role.

To be sure, Chanel is very actively dressing its clutch of famous brand ambassadors — which include the likes of Kristen Stewart, Penélope Cruz, Charlotte Casiraghi and Blackpink’s Jenny — as well as other celebrities for red-carpet events, such as Giveon at the 2022 Grammys.

According to Morgado’s LinkedIn account, he was most recently head of design for haute couture, celebrities and special projects at Givenchy. He had joined the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned fashion brand in 2013 as head designer of haute couture and VIP in 2013.

It is understood he worked at Italian label Borbonese earlier in his career.

Many top European fashion houses have dedicated design staff for dressing VIPs, which continue to attract consumer attention and engagement, especially on social media.

Givenchy reorganized its teams following the departure of Morgado and engaged Suzanna Venegas, who has experience working in haute couture and ready-to-wear with John Galliano at Maison Margiela and Dior. She now works under Givenchy creative director Matthew Williams on women’s categories and oversees all couture and VIP requests, according to a spokeswoman for the house.

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Milan Fashion Week’s September Edition Packed With Debut Shows

Updated on Aug. 1

MILAN — September’s Milan Fashion Week, running from Sept. 20 to Sept. 26, is poised to be a packed affair, with 67 mostly physical shows, highly anticipated debuts and a bunch of returning designer brands.

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Among the creatives presenting their first collections for storied houses is Marco de Vincenzo, the newly named creative director at Etro, who will make his debut at the helm of the storied Italian brand. For it, he picked a location on the outskirts of the city for the Sept. 23 event, which takes place a few hours after Filippo Grazioli’s revamped vision for Missoni. This will mark Grazioli’s first catwalk since joining the brand as creative director in March. He was already responsible for the resort and men’s spring collections unveiled via presentations earlier this summer.

The following day, Sept. 24, a couple of additional eagerly awaited debuts are taking place: Salvatore Ferragamo, which showed via a presentation last season as it prepared a change of creative guard, is back with a coed show designed by newly installed creative director Maximilian Davis, while Bally, which had traditionally hosted presentations, is making its debut on the runway with the first collection designed by Rhuigi Villaseñor, the Manila-born designer behind the Rhude brand.

Moncler will cap off that day celebrating its 70th anniversary with a runway event at 9 p.m. CET.

Showing off-schedule on Sept. 25 at its Milan flagship store on Corso Buenos Aires, Benetton will parade the first collection designed by newly appointed creative director Andrea Incontri.

According to the provisional calendar issued Friday by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the week officially kicks off on Sept. 20 with the Milano Moda Graduate event, the fashion organizing body’s awards for graduate

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