fashion industry

Black Ivy Thrift, a new thrift store in West Philly, sells clothing that embodies the civil rights movement

A new West Philadelphia thrift shop that doubles as a museum epitomizes the term “fashion as activism.”

Black Ivy Thrift, which opened earlier this month, sells a curated collection of sustainable fashion items and displays artifacts that celebrate the civil rights movement of the 1950s and 1960s.

“I wanted to do something that would continue to amplify all that Philadelphia offers American culture by paying homage to the figures who came through Philadelphia in the civil rights movement, and how they use style to tell stories,” said Kimberly McGlonn, the curator behind Black Ivy Thrift.

Black Ivy Thrift sells hand-curated thrift and vintage items associated with the fashion of the civil rights movement from 1954, when the U.S. Supreme Court decided the landmark Brown v. Board of Education case, to 1972, when Shirley Chisholm, the first Black woman elected to Congress, ran for president. 

McGlonn has traveled around the country to find pieces of corduroy, leather, embroidery and florals that embody the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s. The store offers everything from denim jackets to turtlenecks to polyester pants, with countless opportunities to mix and match the thrift and vintage pieces into unique outfits.

People also can purchase original artwork and decor, plus rare vintage vinyl by musicians like Nat King Cole, first edition books by writers like Maya Angelou and pieces by modern figures like Barack and Michelle Obama. 

black ivy thrift bookProvided Image/Kimberly McGlonn

Black Ivy Thrift offers clothing and artifacts from and inspired by the civil rights era.

When people enter the store, they are greeted by a wall covered with artifacts, including vintage gloves, records and magazine covers. Other distinctive touches include a TV screen playing footage from the civil rights movement, a 1959 typewriter and a photo of McGlonn’s great grandparents.

The “shoppable

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Attica couple’s company featured in Indiana Fashion Week

WaZeil and UaZit DeSutter travel around the country with their one-of-a-kind merchandise. However, their big break is happening close to home.

ATTICA, Ind. — A western Indiana couple is creating waves in the fashion industry with their all-natural clothing company. They travel around the country with their one-of-a-kind merchandise. However, their big break is happening close to home.

Move over New York. Attica, Indiana, might just be the next fashion capital. 

“One lady walked in and just could not believe that this was hanging out, and she’s a business owner downtown, that this was happening in Attica,” said UaZit DeSutter.

WaZeil and UaZit DeSutter have converted their apartment into a studio. 

“I was selling luxury shoes, which is the complete opposite to the life I live now,” WaZeil said.

Each an artist in their own right, the couple created an earth-friendly, all-natural company, Stalph

“It kind of was a rabbit hole. The effect of the fashion industry on our planet. And it was really eye-opening,” WaZeil said. 

They only use plant-based fabrics, cotton, hemp and linen and colors they find around them. 

“His [Uazit] uncle has property where we go specifically for our black walnuts and golden rod, lots of golden rod. So, we try and forge any of the native plants to Indiana in our area,” WaZeil said.

Using their kitchen stove, they give each article of their clothing line, WAZUAZ, its distinct color.

They also make soaps, skincare and even cooking utensils. 

“It’s just every moment of the day. You’re constantly jumping into something else. It’s like juggling,” UaZit said.

They’re about to be juggling even more with their biggest break yet, the Indiana Fashion week, which began Monday.

It will be a “pinch me” moment taking their designs to the runway. 

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I’m a model who has worked in high fashion since I was 15. I’m now using TikTok to expose the dark side of the industry.

A picture of Karoline Bjørnelykke in 2012 next to a picture of her from 2022.

Bjørnelykke walked the runways at Paris Fashion Week in 2012 when she was 16.Kirstin Sinclair/Getty Images and Karoline Bjørnelykke

  • Karoline Bjørnelykke started modeling when she was a size zero. She’s now considered plus-size.

  • She said the industry encourages dieting; she now makes TikToks sharing her eating disorder journey.

  • This is Karoline’s story, as told to Charissa Cheong.

  • Editor’s note: This story discusses eating disorders and may be triggering for some readers.

Editor’s note: This story discusses eating disorders and may be triggering for some readers.

This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with model Karoline Bjørnelykke. It has been edited for length and clarity.

I was never the cool kid in school, so when I got scouted to become a model at 15, I was really quite surprised.

I worked in high fashion throughout my teenage years, walking the runway at Paris Fashion Week in 2012, and moving from my home in Norway to model abroad. It was weird because I went from feeling like no one wanted to talk to me to getting invited to lots of events where everyone wanted to be my friend.

Things took a bad turn pretty quickly. While I was away from home, I was living on an extreme diet to maintain my figure. I have struggled with anorexia since the age of 12 because even though I wasn’t overweight, I was naturally a bit bigger than other kids in terms of height and build, so I got bullied by my peers.  The extreme dieting during my early years as a model made my eating disorder a lot worse.

A picture of Bjørnelykke when she was 12 years old.

A picture of Bjørnelykke at 12 years old, when she was already 5 foot 7 inches tall.Karoline Bjørnelykke.

I came back to Norway five years ago and started to focus on

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‘The hard work is never over’

Three years before “manifesting” became the new wellness craze in late 2020, Aaron Rose Philip tweeted that when she was finally signed to a modeling agency, it was going to be “OVER for y’all.” And she was right.

Philip, a transgender Antiguan American model who was born with cerebral palsy, has published a book, been profiled by the New York Times and Vogue, was interviewed by her idol Naomi Campbell, starred in multiple high-profile fashion editorials, served as grand marshal for New York City’s 2021 Pride Parade and performed in a Miley Cyrus music video — all before she turned 21.

So, yes, it was over for all of us the second she decided to pursue the fashion industry when she was a junior in high school.

“I am someone who has lived 50 lives in 21 years,” she told In The Know. “I for sure use fashion as an outlet for my own personal happiness and self-expression.”

Philip is now managed by Community New York and Milk Management London and has modeled for almost five years now. But as she continues adding to her already impressive résumé, she is still waiting to see disability be made an equal part of the conversation surrounding the need for more diversity within fashion and beauty.

“I’ve had so many opportunities [in which] the client may revert on their decision to cast me or the job ‘just doesn’t work out’ in general due to them not being able to accommodate my disability,” Philip explained.

Physical impairment is the most common form of disability in the U.S. — affecting one out of every seven adults. Fashion is a profit-driven industry that still fails to create adaptive clothing for a significant portion of the population. In a commercial

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