haute couture

History takes bows, amid new rows, at Haute Couture Fashion Week

against the backdrop of the Spanish steps, while Dolce & Gabbana returned to its Sicilian roots.

Kim Kardashian made headlines for walking at the Balenciaga show alongside Nicole Kidman and Dua Lipa but was quickly overshadowed by daughter North West’s first foray into the fashion scene. West, who is Kim’s eldest child with rapper Kanye West, accompanied her famous mother throughout the week, and was even spotted front row at Jean Paul Gaultier’s show, making ripples on social media with her distinct punk-esque style.

Beyond the celebrity grandeur, high fashion was still the main focus of the week. Haute couture garments are made-to-order pieces bought by extremely wealthy individuals, the pieces are often sewn by hand and showcase the highest form of the designer’s craftsmanship. These collections are also often used as marketing vehicles to sustain a brand’s prestige and increase exposure.

Here are the highlights of Haute Couture Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2022.

In full bloom
Schiaparelli, a brand that had faded out of the spotlight but has since got a refresh, opened couture week at the hands of creative director Daniel Roseberry. The collection echoed ’80s glamour, with exaggerated silhouettes in striking colours, paired with dramatic hats and headpieces by milliner Stephen Jones.

In true couture spirit, looks 22 to 28 were accented by Roseberry’s painstakingly hand-painted and hand-embroidered flowers adorned with sequins. These larger-than-life floral motifs were a subtle nod to Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist origins.

The design house is also the subject of an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, which explores Schiaparelli’s original works and pieces from other notable designers  who were inspired by her, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaïa, and Christian Lacroix.

A pragmatic approach
While most couture collections tend to go more fantastical and elaborate, Chanel artistic

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Chanel Adds Designer for Special Projects, VIP Dressing

NEW RECRUIT: Virginie Viard, creative director at Chanel, has added a notable talent to her design team, WWD has learned.

Alexandre Morgado, a nine-year veteran of Givenchy, has joined the French house to work with Viard on special projects, including VIP dressing.

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A Chanel spokeswoman confirmed the appointment to WWD, and noted it’s a new role.

To be sure, Chanel is very actively dressing its clutch of famous brand ambassadors — which include the likes of Kristen Stewart, Penélope Cruz, Charlotte Casiraghi and Blackpink’s Jenny — as well as other celebrities for red-carpet events, such as Giveon at the 2022 Grammys.

According to Morgado’s LinkedIn account, he was most recently head of design for haute couture, celebrities and special projects at Givenchy. He had joined the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned fashion brand in 2013 as head designer of haute couture and VIP in 2013.

It is understood he worked at Italian label Borbonese earlier in his career.

Many top European fashion houses have dedicated design staff for dressing VIPs, which continue to attract consumer attention and engagement, especially on social media.

Givenchy reorganized its teams following the departure of Morgado and engaged Suzanna Venegas, who has experience working in haute couture and ready-to-wear with John Galliano at Maison Margiela and Dior. She now works under Givenchy creative director Matthew Williams on women’s categories and oversees all couture and VIP requests, according to a spokeswoman for the house.

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